How We Value a Watch: The Unaged Luxury Estimate, Explained

Our value tool prices more than 2,700 references, and every piece in the collection is priced the same way. This is what the figure means.

One question

Each estimate answers: what would a collector pay for this exact watch today? It is a retail-equivalent figure, the same basis as the prices in our shop. It is not an offer.

Four things decide it

1. The recent market. We use the last 45 days of the trade. A price from last year is history, not a value; the price history is where history lives.
2. The exact dial. On many references the dial moves the price by 20% or more: the Datejust 41 126334 spans $15,900 to $21,000 across its dials. So we price each dial on its own, and where the market splits by dial we show the most quoted dial first and say so.
3. The set. A full set (box and card), papers only (card, no box) or the watch alone. A missing card costs far more than a missing box. Our guide to full sets has the numbers.
4. The card year. Where the market prices a reference differently by the year on its card, we price that year. Where it does not, we blend the years and say so.

What we publish

Every estimate is one figure with its basis line. We publish estimates and asking prices only.

Spellings and codes

Dealers write one watch many ways: 126334G, 15500ST.OO.1220ST.01, 5711/1A-010. Each is the same watch with a dial named in code. Our tool reads them all and opens the reference on the right dial, so every watch has one page and one address. How to read a reference number explains the codes.

When there is no figure

If a reference or a dial has no reliable recent market, the page says "Valuation on request" rather than guess. Ask us and we price it by hand.

Cite it

Every value page has a permalink and a line you can quote: "Unaged Luxury estimate, October 2026". Journalists, forums and collectors are welcome to use it.