How to Read a Reference Number: Rolex, Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe

A reference number is the most precise way to name a watch, and the trade uses it constantly. Learn to read one and you can tell, before you see a photograph, what a dealer is offering.

Rolex

A modern Rolex reference is five or six digits, sometimes followed by letters. The digits name the model, the case size and the metal; the letters name the bezel. The maker's full model number adds a four-digit variant (m126334-0027), which fixes the dial and the bracelet. The bezel letters you will meet most:

• LN: black bezel (Submariner 126610LN, Daytona 126500LN).
• LV: green bezel (Submariner 126610LV, the "Starbucks"; the earlier 116610LV is the "Hulk", with a green dial too).
• LB: blue bezel (Submariner 126613LB, the "Bluesy").
• BLNR: blue and black (GMT-Master II 126710BLNR, the "Batman").
• BLRO: blue and red (126710BLRO, the "Pepsi").
• GRNR: grey and black (126710GRNR, the "Bruce Wayne").
• CHNR: brown and black (126711CHNR, the "Root Beer").
• VTNR: green and black on the left-handed GMT (126720VTNR, the "Sprite").
• RBR, TBR, SARU: gem-set versions with diamonds or sapphires on the bezel or case. They are different watches, at very different prices.

Dealers add their own letters to name a dial. G means diamond hour markers, on any colour of dial: a 126334G can be black, blue or grey, and the dealer names the colour in the text. NG is a mother-of-pearl dial with diamond markers. Some write the colour itself (CHAMP for champagne) or a nickname (WIN for the Wimbledon dial).

Audemars Piguet

An Audemars Piguet full reference reads in four groups: 15500ST.OO.1220ST.01.

• 15500ST: the model (15500) and the case material (ST is steel; OR pink gold; BA yellow gold; BC white gold; PT platinum; TI titanium; CE ceramic).
• OO: gem-setting. OO is none.
• 1220ST: the bracelet or strap.
• .01: the variant, which in practice is the dial. On the 15500ST, .01 is the blue dial.

Most of the trade uses the short form, 15500ST, and names the dial in words.

Patek Philippe

A Patek reference is four digits for the model, letters for the metal (A steel, G white gold, R rose gold, J yellow gold, P platinum) and sometimes a bracelet code after a slash: 5711/1A is the steel Nautilus on its steel bracelet. The three digits after the dash name the variant, usually the dial: 5711/1A-010 is the blue dial, -011 the white and -014 the olive green.

Why it matters when you buy

The letters change the price. A 126710 is worth $19,900 as a Batman and $28,000 as a Pepsi; a 126334 with diamond markers is worth about $2,000 more than the same watch without. When you ask for a price, give the full reference and the dial. Our value tool reads every one of these forms. Type 126334G, 126710BLRO, 15500ST.OO.1220ST.01 or 5711/1A-010 and it opens the right watch on the right dial.

---

Figures are Unaged Luxury estimates as of October 24, 2026: retail-equivalent, full set, from the recent market. Estimates, not offers.